| |
ZL3AI > APRDIG 24.10.03 15:01l 247 Lines 10217 Bytes #999 (0) @ WW
BID : 2195-ZL3AI
Read: GUEST
Subj: TAPR Digest, Oct 22, 2/5
Path: DB0FHN<DB0RGB<DB0MRW<DB0PV<OE2XOM<OE5XBL<OE3XSR<OK0PCC<OK0PHL<OK0PPR<
OK0PPL<DB0RES<ON0AR<7M3TJZ<KP4IG<ED1ZAC<ZL2TZE<ZL3VML
Sent: 031024/1239Z @:ZL3VML.#80.NZL.OC #:11108 [Chch-NZ] FBB7.00i $:2195-ZL3AI
From: ZL3AI@ZL3VML.#80.NZL.OC
To : APRDIG@WW
Subject: Re: Looking for WAV recordings of APRS and Packet
From: "Ev Tupis (W2EV)" <w2ev@arrl.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 09:17:26 -0400
X-Message-Number: 10
Just curious, Daryl...what's the difference between APRS and Packet, in your
mind?
Ev, W2EV
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: run time a car battery....
From: Bob Bruninga <bruninga@usna.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 10:58:02 -0400 (EDT)
X-Message-Number: 11
On Wed, 22 Oct 2003, Dale Seaburg wrote:
>And, you may have been lucky. I was not. Twice! As David says, YMMV.
>But, for sure car batteries, as a whole, are NOT designed for
>deep-cycling at all.
We fully agree! But that was not the intent of my post.
I was -only- disagreeing with someone's post that a single deep discharge
would cause "serious" shortening of the life of the battery. The
differnece in design of a deep cycle battery and a car battery is to
minimize the problems caused by -long-term-repetative- deep discharge.
A single typical deep discharge event such as leaving your lights on once
in the life of the battery, I still say, will NOT "seriously" degrade the
useful life of the battery. That was my only point.
Repeated deep discharges do do more and more damage. How manY? Hard to
say, not many, since each one causes more and more damage. but ONE and
ONLY one will not cause the "serious" harm someone initially posted.
It will do SOME harm.
and every further instance will do MORE harm.
and after a few of these it will have "serious" consequencies...
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: D7 on alkaline Batteries
From: Henk de Groot <henk.de.groot@hetnet.nl>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 17:37:44 +0200
X-Message-Number: 12
Hello Sandy,
At 19:09 21-10-03 -0400, Frank Ingle wrote:
>I am the almost proud owner of a new Kenwood D7A(G) H/T. I say
>almost because I'm not very happy with the battery life. I
<cut>
>I made some measurements on current consumption of the D7 and
>found it to be lower than the consumption specs published in the
>manual in every case but one - Rx (not dual mode) - with no
>signal: the spec was 45 ma, and mine consumed 54.8 ma. Not a
>big difference.
<cut>
>Has anyone else encountered this problem? If so, is there a
>better battery alkaline pack available, or any other
>work-arounds?
A trick could be to switch-on the battery saver! You can do this if you
want to run the TH-D7 as a pure tracker and don't care about any APRS
reception. As soon as something is received there is a few seconds timeout
before the battery saver becomes active, in my environment there are too
many packets on APRS to yield any bennefit (almost never enters power save
mode). But there is a solution for that! Just set the receiver at another
QRG. The TH-D7 can't hear anymore if the channel is clear but as a handheld
mobile you will have a lot of hidden transmitters anyway.
Example, I want to set the receiver to 144.775 (almost always clear) and
the transmitter to 144.800 (did you know you can do ODD shifts, its on page
27 of the TH-D7A/E manual, don't know where it is in the TH-D7A/E(G)
manual). Here are the steps to take:
Put the TH-D7 in band A only reception and on 2 meter. Make sure the TNC is
also set to band A.
Press [VFO]
With [UP]/[DWN] select the reception frequency (144.775)
Press [F][MR]
With [UP]/[DWN] select a free memory channel (in my case #162)
Press [OK]
Up to now nothing specific, now we program the TX frequency
Press [VFO]
With [UP]/[DWN] select the transmision frequency (144.800)
Press [F][MR]
With [UP]/[DWN] select the previously used memory channel (in my case #162)
Press [PTT]+[OK]
Optional: name the channel you picked "APRS TX!".
Now memory channel 162 receives on 144.775 (i.e. nothing there...) and
sends on 144.800. Now switch on the battery saver
[MENU]->[RADIO]->[SAVE]->[BAT SAVER] and set it to 5 seconds. A few seconds
after you last touched the keyboard or after the last reception the battery
saver shuts down the radio and probes the QRG every 5 seconds.
Switch on the TNC and the beacon. Dispite battery saving the radio still
reads NMEA GPS data and transmits the beacon. Hold the [F] key to lock the
keyboard against accidental change.
When the radio and TNC is active my TH-D7E draws 65.6 mA on 6 V stabilized
power, when the power save kicks in it draws 29 mA, this saves more than
50% of the energy at the expense of no reception and pure ALOHA
transmission characteristics without an attempt at collision avoidance.
Just an idea how to double the lifetime of your batteries when using the
TH-D7 as a pure tracking device (much like TinyTrak but all in one device).
I don't know if the TMD700 has a battery save option, otherwise the same
trick can be used to prevent that the car battery runs flat (at least
extend the period before that happens). If you are running the TMD700
unattended, nobody will look on the screen anyway, just have a memory
channel for active use and one for TX-only if it is running unattended. My
TH-D7E doesn't have profiles, maybe that can be used in the TH-D7A/E(G) and
TM-D700A/E to keep these settings.
I hope this was usefull...
Kind regards,
Henk.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: run time a car battery....
From: Henk de Groot <henk.de.groot@hetnet.nl>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 17:51:42 +0200
X-Message-Number: 13
Another idea!
I think the TM-D700 will just like the TH-D7 send a beacon a second after
you switch it on. Why not make a simple circuit that just cuts the power to
the TM-D700 and switches it on every 30 minutes (the car doesn't move by
itself...) for about 3 seconds (enough to get the beacon out). This simple
circuit can draw very, very low power. This should be able to last for
weeks before the battery is dead!
Kind regards,
Henk.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: run time a car battery....
From: "Doug Younker" <dougy@ruraltel.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 10:55:15 -0500
X-Message-Number: 14
I don't have an URL at hand, but the project is pretty straight forward,
most camper suppliers will stock the solid state isolator needed.
Generally the toughest part is finding a good way to mount the second
battery pan in the engine compartment. My father had such a set up it all
his rig pick-ups to power the IMTS telephones all day and still be able to
drive home in the evening. I don't recall him bothering with deep cycle
batteries. I guess it was simpler to go by the auto supply store and pick
up a conventional auto battery.--73
Doug, N0LKK
dougy@ruraltel.net
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: run time a car battery....
From: "Brian Riley (maillist)" <n1bq_list@wulfden.org>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 12:22:13 -0400
X-Message-Number: 15
Go to an RV products store they have a diode block that the charge wire from
the alternator gets lifted and attached to the center of the diode block
and the original battery to on side and the new radio battery to the other.
This prevents the radio battery from draining the car battery.
Cheers ... 73 de brian, n1bq
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: run time a car battery....
From: "Daron J. Wilson" <daron@wilson.org>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 09:48:59 -0700
X-Message-Number: 16
>Go to an RV products store they have a diode block that the charge wire from
>the alternator gets lifted and attached to the center of the diode block
>and the original battery to on side and the new radio battery to the other.
>This prevents the radio battery from draining the car battery.
This is the most correct method. I used to use continuous duty
solenoids to tie the main and aux battery together when the vehicle was
running, hoping to keep the battery voltage up without a diode isolator.
However, that doesn't charge the battery properly.
Remember that the alternator is not designed to recharge the battery
from a discharged state. It is designed to recharge it from a bit of
cranking on the engine to get it going, and then whatever maintenance
charging needs to be done underway. When two batteries are paralleled
together, and you run one way down, when you start the car the
alternator will ramp up and charge according to the voltage/current
needs sensed from both batteries. In short, you will peak up your
starting battery and then the charging current will diminish to a
maintenance charge and you won't ever get the auxiliary battery up where
it needs to be. If you mostly discharge the battery, take it out of the
car and charge it properly, I've found this extends the life of the
battery rather than just depending on the alternator to do it in 2 hours
of driving.
Also I would really recommend a marine type automatic charger if you use
this stuff heavily, and plugging it in at night to keep the battery at
its peak and extend the life of the deep cycle battery. I've got all my
electronics running off the aux battery, and I added a relay for the
dome light circuit moving it to the aux battery as well (found that out
the hard way) so I can basically open the doors and work as long as it
takes, and STILL be able to start it and drive home.
On another note, I can't find the ultimate inline fuse holder. I use a
littlefuse product that comes in a kit with two halves, spring, and two
solder on ends. I don't like having a butt splice connector, so I use
these for everything to make a finished looking project. However,
getting anything larger than #12 wire in them doesn't work. In the
olden days, Motorola, Midland and others had a nice fuse holder that
would handle up to 10 or even 8 gage wire. It was an inline job, and I
think it may have even come as a kit so you could install it on your own
wire. Anyone have a source for this or a similar kit for 10 gage wire
that doesn't already have a pigtail on it?
Of course...I need this for my APRS setup :)
73
N7HQR
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Read previous mail | Read next mail
| |
