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KB2VXA > HELP 25.08.03 18:10l 45 Lines 1788 Bytes #999 (0) @ WW
BID : 12214_WT3V
Read: GUEST DB0FHN
Subj: Re: VK3BO > hex stud removal
Path: DB0FHN<DB0RGB<DB0MRW<OK0PPL<DB0RES<ON0AR<WB0TAX<KB2TXP<KB2FAF<KA2MYD<
K1UOL<WA2PNU<KC2COJ<WT3V
Sent: 030825/1448Z @:WT3V.#CNJ.NJ.USA.NOAM #:12214 [Lakehurst] $:12214_WT3V
From: KB2VXA@WT3V.#CNJ.NJ.USA.NOAM
To : HELP@WW
Hi John and mil surplus buffs,
Depending on the area the unit was intended for use in it may have been
treated in one of several different ways. For example, those intended for
the Pacific Theatre were treated with Cosmoline, an anti fungal agent.
To the point, the unit in question may or may not have the set screws
locked in place with Glyptal varnish, the same stuff commonly used up
into the 70s for treating high voltage components, even in TV sets. Today
we use a product called Loctite for freezing bolts in place, you probably
have some in your car's engine.
The first thing I would try is to rotate the shaft, placing the set screw
on top vertically and place a drop of penetrating oil on it, the screw
may just be frozen with age. Let it sit for about a day and try to remove
the screw. If it still won't budge it's "glued" in there and another
approach is needed.
You must then drill it out being careful not to damage surrounding
components of course. Then you must choose the next larger size
replacement screw according to the diameter of the hole you drilled, mind
you that when you tap the threads you do so according to the shaft
diameter, not the overall diameter of the threads. Yeah, there's a trick
to choosing the right tap!
Since I haven't drilled ant tapped in many years and have forgotten
exactly how to choose the right drill and tap diameters, please ask your
friendly neighborhood machinist. (;->)
73 de Warren, KB2VXA@WT3V.#CNJ.NJ.USA.NOAM
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Message timed: 14:56 on 2003-Aug-25 GMT
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