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ZL3AI > APRDIG 21.02.04 23:20l 278 Lines 10613 Bytes #999 (0) @ WW
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To : APRDIG@WW
TAPR APRS Special Interest Group Digest for Thursday, February 19, 2004.
1. Re: Amperage rating of cigarette ligher plug
2. Re: Amperage rating of cigarette ligher plug
3. Re: Amperage rating of cigarette ligher plug
4. Re: Amperage rating of cigarette ligher plug
5. Re: Amperage rating of cigarette ligher plug
6. Re: Alternate Balloon Paths
7. Re: Tetroon construction?
8. Re: Tetroon construction?
9. Re: Tetroon construction?
10. Re: Tetroon construction?
11. Re: Tetroon construction?
12. Re: Tetroon construction?
13. Re: Tetroon construction?
14. Re: Amperage rating of cigarette ligher plug
15. Re: Amperage rating of cigarette lighter plug
16. Re: Amperage rating of cigarette lighter plug
17. Re: Tetroon construction?
18. Re: Tetroon construction?
19. APRS Map Manager Submittals
20. MAP Converter?
21. Re: APRS Map Manager Submittals
22. Re: APRS Map Manager Submittals
23. Re: APRS Map Manager Submittals
24. Re: APRS Map Manager Submittals
25. Re: APRS Map Manager Submittals
26. Re: APRS Map Manager Submittals
27. Re: APRS Map Manager Submittals
28. Re: APRS Map Manager Submittals
29. winaprs map file ?
30. Re: APRS Map Manager Submittals
31. Re: APRS Map Manager Submittals
32. Re: APRS Map Manager Submittals
33. Re: MAP Converter?
34. Re: APRS Map Manager Submittals
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Subject: Re: Amperage rating of cigarette ligher plug
From: Rich Osman <Rich@osman.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 05:41:40 -0600
X-Message-Number: 1
Adi,
Just bite the bullet and do this right. Run the 10 gauge that came with
the control cable right to the battery through the included fuse. Place the
fuseholder close to the battery. If you don't have the cable or fuseholder,
I have a used one I'll give you if you'll cover the cost to get it there.
You'll need to locate a grommet though the firewall. I used the same one
all the other cables went through. Run the wire INSIDE the vehicle. It's
usually possible to find a path with a little care. Don't worry, there will
be one. There's ususally a path under the step plate that's the bottom of
the door frame. Talk to a local two way or stereo shop. It may take some
time, but it will be worth it.
Running this beast off a tap off the fuse block is going to make you
unhappy eventually. Depending on which panel you use, the fuse panel
probably only has 10 wire gauge running to it. You'll have problems like
dimming lights and interference with the myriad in car electronics at best,
or mysterious shutdowns, or worse.
Once you've run the (fused!) 10 gauge, you can run all of your radios off
this.
Another issue is the ground. APVs (All Plastic Vehicles) can make this a
challenge. Many of the metal panels are electrically isolated by sound
dampening material or have high electrical resistance connections.
Finally, drill a hole for the antenna. A mag mount is a short term
compromise. It WILL scuff up the clear coat and damage the paint
eventually. Sand and grit get underneath no matter what you do. Figure
out how many radios you want, multiply by two and add one. Buy this number
of NMO mounts and drop the headliner and get a drill. It only hurts for a
little while and is worth it in the long term. Cover the mounts that are
unused with rain caps. These are about $2.00 and available in chrome and
black. They let you go to the car wash without incident.
If you haven't ever done this, make friend with a local two way installer
(not a stereo guy) and get some advice. It's not hard to install mounts
without leaks, but it takes some care. Likewise, it's not hard to unsnap
those panels, but if you are not careful, you'll bust the magic pins and
have squeaks. You want to be really careful pulling plastic because GM
ships the replacements unpainted.
I have a '98 Olds silhouette. I've done this, it's not hard, just takes
time and care. You'll have this for a while, just do it right. When you
trade it in, tell them it's cellular ready.
Putting the radio in the back is what god (or at least Motorola) intended.
Adi Linden wrote:
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Adi Linden <adil@adis.on.ca>
>Sent: Feb 18, 2004 3:26 PM
>To: TAPR APRS Special Interest Group <aprssig@lists.tapr.org>
>Subject: [aprssig] Amperage rating of cigarette ligher plug
>
>I am installing a Mitrek converted for APRS in my 2002 Chevy Venture. I
>thought of sticking the radio into the very back of the van and run RG-58
>to a mag mount on the roof. I am having problems getting power to the
>mounting location of the radio, though.
>
>Any ideas what the current rating of the auxillary cigarette lighter
>socket by the back door of the van would be? The Mitrek draws some 13.5A
>on transmit. I am just wondering if plugging it into that power outlet is
>a suitable solution.
>
>Thanks,
>Adi
--
mailto:Rich@Osman.com http://www.rich.osman.com
Rich Osman; POB 93167; Southlake, TX 76092 (Near DFW Airport) ARS: N1OZ
If you receive something that says "Send this to everyone you know,"
PLEASE pretend you don't know me.
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Subject: Re: Amperage rating of cigarette ligher plug
From: "Sadowski, Allan" <allan.sadowski@ncshp.org>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 08:10:23 -0500
X-Message-Number: 2
Reminds me of a topic discussed here a year or so ago... I think on that
topic they were also concerned about draining the battery so far as to
make engine starting a concern.
I thought at that time, the idea was to put another battery at the back
- in this case it could be charged from the cigarette lighter connection
- 7 amps ought to be more than enough.
I seem to recall there were some concerns about the voltage drop with a
standard silicon diode to the battery at the back... these days it would
seem that a FET would do quite well... and there would be the battery in
the back after all..
May be more complicated than what is desired... but a small motorcycle
battery might work?
ALOHA
AH6LS
-----Original Message-----
This would take an enormous capacitor, to be of any use.
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Subject: Re: Amperage rating of cigarette ligher plug
From: David VanHorn <dvanhorn@cedar.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 08:43:22 -0500
X-Message-Number: 3
>May be more complicated than what is desired... but a small motorcycle
>battery might work?
>
>ALOHA
>AH6LS
I didn't think this would work all that well, but so far..
I installed a 14AH gel cell in the rear of my rig, to power two FT-1500's
and a GPS / tnc combo permanently. It is simply connected in parallel to
the main battery, though a 60A fuse, and about 20' of #8. So far, no
problems.
This just adds extra capacity to the system, and it does not protect me
from discharging the main battery, but it seems to work well enough. The
resistance of the wire seems to limit the charge current adequately.
I have a more elaborate plan involving a boost regulator, to create a
second power system that only charges when the main battery is > 12.5V, but
I haven't had to implement it yet.
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Subject: Re: Amperage rating of cigarette ligher plug
From: Steve Dimse <k4hg@tapr.org>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 09:02:28 -0500
X-Message-Number: 4
On 2/19/04 at 8:43 AM David VanHorn <dvanhorn@cedar.net> sent:
>I have a more elaborate plan involving a boost regulator, to create a second
>power system that only charges when the main battery is > 12.5V, but I haven't
>had to implement it yet.
At one point West marine sold a voltage controlled relay that performed this
function rather cheaply. I used one in my old van, which had a deep cycle
battery driving the electronics in the rear. It was buried deep behind the
battery in the rats nest of wiring...
http://www.aprs.net/trip98/van.html
It wasn't expensive, something like $40. I looked on their web site, and
don't see it for sale now though, but probably someone does. I was very
happy with it.
Sure do miss that van...
Steve K4HG
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Subject: Re: Amperage rating of cigarette ligher plug
From: "Sadowski, Allan" <allan.sadowski@ncshp.org>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 09:08:10 -0500
X-Message-Number: 5
They still have them... but the cheapest is $80... bit more than I'm
willing to part with for this application... since I need a dozen of
them...
ALOHA
AH6LS
-----Original Message-----
At one point West marine sold a voltage controlled relay that performed
this function rather cheaply. I used one in my old van, which had a deep
cycle battery driving the electronics in the rear. It was buried deep
behind the battery in the rats nest of wiring...
It wasn't expensive, something like $40. I looked on their web site, and
don't see it for sale now though, but probably someone does. I was very
happy with it.
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Subject: Re: Alternate Balloon Paths
From: "Robert Bruninga" <bruninga@usna.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 09:21:50 -0500
X-Message-Number: 6
>>>"Paul Wightman" <pwightm@CLEMSON.EDU>> wrote:
>[We are] building and launching a balloon...
>... we could use a generic path of "BALLOON"...
>[to] reduce congestion...
COMMENT: I say again, there is NO CONGESTION problem with the path of
WIDE. A Balloon or Aircraft with that path will consume only one second of
airtime. No matter how many digi's hear it.
AND that is the purpose of the 144.39 network, to hear such exciting
events.
>Granted, this approach would take a considerable amount
>of planning and effort.
Yes, and after you graduate you will soon learn that ANYTHING that requires
even the simplest planning and coordination and cooperation of large
numbers of people will NEVER work as planned. If there is a simpler
approach always take it...
>This approach may not be worth the extra time and energy,
>especially for one-time flights. However, we hope to make
>balloon launches a semi-regular event.
Then simply use the proper path of WIDE, everyone will hear your balloon,
your impact on the network is no different than any other mobile no matter
how high it gets, and yet the network will help you track and find your
balloon, and everyone wins...
Glad to hear of these Balloon projects. What fun! We cant do it here,
because everything lands in the Atlantic!
de WB4APR, Bob
In Maryland...
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