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ZL3AI > APRDIG 25.10.03 15:07l 251 Lines 9450 Bytes #999 (0) @ WW
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Subj: TAPR Digest, Oct 23, 1/3
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From: ZL3AI@ZL3VML.#80.NZL.OC
To : APRDIG@WW
TAPR APRS Special Interest Group Digest for Thursday, October 23, 2003.
1. Re: second battery
2. Re: run time a car battery....
3. Re: run time a car battery....
4. Re: run time a car battery....
5. Re: run time a car battery....
6. Re: run time a car battery....
7. Crystals for a Standard SR-C806M Radio
8. Re: SMART digi paths
9. 48V Powerpoles?
10. RE: [amsat-bb] AO-40 data mode... APRS???
11. Re: run time a car battery....
12. Re: 48V Powerpoles?
13. D700 data cable
14. OpenTracker PCB run
15. Re: D700 data cable
16. OpenTracker
17. Re: OpenTracker PCB run
18. RE: OpenTracker PCB run
19. Re: OpenTracker PCB run
20. Relay vs wide
21. Re: SMART digi paths
22. Re: OpenTracker PCB run
23. Re: SMART digi paths
24. Re: D700 data cable
25. RE: [amsat-bb] AO-40 data mode... APRS???
26. Re: D700 data cable
27. aprs1
28. Re: OpenTracker
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Subject: Re: second battery
From: Dale Blanchard <wa7ixk@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 21:12:43 -0700
X-Message-Number: 1
I have a old Ford trailer special that came with two batteries. One for
the engine and one for the trailer. Both under the hood. When the
ignition is on a 80 amp relay is activated. In the start position it is
diconnected and comes back on when running. My radios run off the
trailer battery. Have no trailer anymore. If I need a jump I just put
the positive cable from one battery to the other. don't need the ground.
Or I can jumper 12 v to the selenoid and hook them together .
Been working for 30 years, but with the new riggs I only have one
battery in my newer Dodge.
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Subject: Re: run time a car battery....
From: Dave VanHorn <dvanhorn@cedar.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:38:17 -0500
X-Message-Number: 2
>I'm a dealer for Tsunami Autosound products and use their equipment for
>all of the major wiring in my Expedition (including 140A breakers up
>front, a pair (red/black) of 1/0ga. wire running to the rear, power
>distribution from 1/0ga. to 4ga., 100A circuit breaker for 4ga. running to
>forward radio console, etc.) For smaller distribution, I use Scientific
>Dimensions power strips - single run in up to 4ga., 6 runs up to 10ga. out
>with individual blade fuses. Every radio (nearly two dozen) and other
>electronic device is individually fused so a chafed/crimped/cut wire will
>only take out one unit rather than several (the one failure I've suffered
>caused me to immediately dump the master breaker up front - however, in an
>emergency situation, I want the option to keep running.)
Interesting! Someone who runs more power than me! :)
How much do the breakers go for?
I consider the fuses to be "aw sh*t" protection, but I would really rather
have something self-resetting within limits.
The idea of a pulsed 100A short is maybe a little scary.
Got any pictures?
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Subject: Re: run time a car battery....
From: Dave VanHorn <dvanhorn@cedar.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:35:42 -0500
X-Message-Number: 3
>Do you have any high end auto audio shops around you? I have #4 wire running
>in my car and found some really great glass fuse holders at a local
>store. They weren't cheap, $14 each or something, but they are built
>like tanks and accepted the #4 wire without a problem. They do not have
>any sort of pigtail on them. The audio shops use them to wire up the
>big sub-woofers I'm sure you have heard traveling down the road ;)
That's what I use, I have a #4 up to the dash, then it splits to two #8s,
one for the front radios, and one for the back.
I use the illuminated fuses at 60A, with several spares onhand.
I got the kit on sale cheap.
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Subject: Re: run time a car battery....
From: Dave VanHorn <dvanhorn@cedar.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:40:32 -0500
X-Message-Number: 4
>I don't believe they have two modes, on to replace the charge lost in
>starting and another to 'maintain' the batteries.
They don't. They are current limited, voltage regulated.
The voltage is set to the "cycle" charge voltage.
>Here's a potential risk of using the cars charging system to recharge a
>HEAVILY depleted deep cycle battery. With a 100++ Amp alternator, sitting
>at ~14 volts.. Will the charge current to a 'dead' deep cycle battery
>exceed the C/20 charge current limit?
There isn't such a limit. The alternator has output current limiting, and
the battery can deal with large inrush currents.
For their intended purposes, these systems are pretty well designed.
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Subject: Re: run time a car battery....
From: tvsjr <tvsjr@sprynet.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 08:03:56 -0500
X-Message-Number: 5
At 07:38 PM 10/22/2003 -0500, Dave VanHorn wrote:
>Interesting! Someone who runs more power than me! :)
>How much do the breakers go for?
>I consider the fuses to be "aw shit" protection, but I would really rather
>have something self-resetting within limits.
>The idea of a pulsed 100A short is maybe a little scary.
>
>Got any pictures?
As long as things are built/protected well physically, you usually won't
blow fuses. The only onboard failure we've ever had (there are two
similarly-equipped vehicles) was the output side of a Radio Shack voltage
convertor (to drive an Optoelectronics Scout at 6V) with typical crummy
paired wire laying across a console edge. It took about 80K miles, but
finally chewed through the insulation. One fuse, one failed device, no big
deal.
(Not that I want to try this) but I've never blown any of the big breakers
(at least without my consent.) Having the big breaker up front with a
manual disconnect button is quite handy when I want to work on the system -
as there are no interconnections between my equipment and the automotive
wiring, disconnecting the breaker kills everything. The breakers are
somewhere around $10.
I actually need to take some pictures for another meeting Real Soon Now.
I'll try to throw something up tonight.
73,
Terry/N5RSE
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Subject: Re: run time a car battery....
From: Dave VanHorn <dvanhorn@cedar.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 08:58:01 -0500
X-Message-Number: 6
>As long as things are built/protected well physically, you usually won't
>blow fuses.
I haven't, but I wouldn't install something like this without an absolute
current limit.
I did find one of those 175A fuses, with the holder, but didn't see a nice
way to mount it up front.
Having any significant length of unfused wire is not a good idea, so I
didn't bother.
It's all laid in so that even ford mechanics don't spot it if I don't draw
their attention to it.
>(Not that I want to try this) but I've never blown any of the big breakers
>(at least without my consent.) Having the big breaker up front with a
>manual disconnect button is quite handy when I want to work on the system
>- as there are no interconnections between my equipment and the automotive
>wiring, disconnecting the breaker kills everything. The breakers are
>somewhere around $10.
I know we don't have anyone locally carrying these.
>I actually need to take some pictures for another meeting Real Soon Now.
>I'll try to throw something up tonight.
Great! I've been meaning to do mine as well, but time is always running
away from me.
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Subject: Crystals for a Standard SR-C806M Radio
From: Paul Jacques <paulj@rain.org>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 07:27:58 -0700
X-Message-Number: 7
I want to put APRS and Packet frequencies in an old tone less Standard
SR-C806M radio I have lying around. Who do I contact about buying
crystal pairs and would I just have to give them the radio model info
and frequencies?
Thank You
Paul
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Subject: Re: SMART digi paths
From: Henk de Groot <henk.de.groot@hetnet.nl>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 10:41:40 +0200
X-Message-Number: 8
Hello Bob,
Here is the way I see these:
At 18:21 22-10-03 -0400, Bob Bruninga wrote:
>LOCAL - Meaningless. All APRS packets are supposed to be local
LOCAL - Local only (one, maybe 2 hops depending on the terain).
Note: This is different than only RELAY because that is always one hop, and
it is different than RELAY,WIDE because that is always two hops. The number
of hops for LOCAL depends on the terain, if you are in a vally you may need
2 hops to spread the packet to the local area, if you hit the digi on a
hill-top you may need one hop.
>WORLD - Meaningless. ALL APRS packets are supposed to be global
> via the APRS-IS.
WORLD - The largest distribution path that the area can bare without
causing an unacceptable load
>REGION - Replaced with "LAN" under the new paradigm.
Middle-way between LOCAL and WORLD, just an extra outer-ring on the LOCAL
coverage area.
All these are using a circular floading pattern. LAN is also good, but LAN
is a specific path while REGION is generic and is envisioned to work
everywhere without having to think about it.
Kind regards,
Henk.
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