| |
ZL3AI > APRDIG 30.11.03 22:42l 241 Lines 9707 Bytes #999 (0) @ WW
BID : 2411-ZL3AI
Read: GUEST
Subj: TAPR Digest, Nov 26, 2/3
Path: DB0FHN<DB0FOR<DB0MRW<DB0RGB<OK0PPL<DB0RES<ON0AR<ZL2BAU<ZL2BAU<ZL3VML
Sent: 031130/0817Z @:ZL3VML.#80.NZL.OC #:13739 [Chch-NZ] FBB7.00i $:2411-ZL3AI
From: ZL3AI@ZL3VML.#80.NZL.OC
To : APRDIG@WW
Subject: Re: ICOM IC-2AT info?
From: "Curt Mills, WE7U" <hacker@tc.fluke.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 09:36:23 -0800 (PST)
X-Message-Number: 10
Can only say that I ripped apart a BP-3 years ago and put in my own
regulator. I think I could only go to about 11volts on the
IC-2A/IC-2AT without frying the radio, but higher voltages gave you
more output power, so I went as high as I could back then. I put in
a crowbar circuit to protect it and blow the fuse, just in case.
Never had a BP-5. I run with the AA pack these days.
--
Curt Mills, WE7U hacker_NO_SPAM_@tc.fluke.com
Senior Methods Engineer/SysAdmin
"Lotto: A tax on people who are bad at math!"
"Windows: Microsoft's tax on computer illiterates!" -- WE7U
"The world DOES revolve around me: I picked the coordinate system!"
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: ICOM IC-2AT info?
From: "Michael Hatzakis, Jr" <mikehatzakis@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 09:45:19 -0800 (PST)
X-Message-Number: 11
if you havent got a solution by tonight, I'll open mine and tell you what I
get. will this help you?
Michael Hatzakis, Jr MD
Physiatrist, Treating Individuals with Neuromuscular Disabilities
Consultant, Information Technology Based Health Care Solutions
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: ICOM IC-2AT info?
From: Mark Earle <wa2mct@mearle.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 11:54:34 -0600
X-Message-Number: 12
ON Icom batteries, the 13.8 input is to charge the batteries. The internal
circuit regulates charge current, so you can feed it unregulated 13.8
nominal.
The IC-2, 3, and 4 series want 6 x 1.25v or 7.5v emax so do not use a
higher voltage directly to the radio's bottom contacts.
Batteries America has replacement inserts if you want to put new cells in
that pack.
If you want to run the radio on unregulated 12v, you can put a regulator
inside the case and remove the charge ckt / cells.
Icom also sold a "dc3" module to do just this.
) ) de WA2MCT Mark
( (
) ) You will be assimilated... oooh, coffee!!
_|****| http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/find.cgi?wa2mct-8 Home
( | | http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/find.cgi?wa2mct-9 Mobile
`|____| wa2mct@mearle.com wa2mct@juno.com www.mearle.com/mark
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: ICOM IC-2AT info?
From: Bob Bruninga <bruninga@usna.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 14:14:19 -0500 (EST)
X-Message-Number: 13
On Wed, 26 Nov 2003, Mark Earle wrote:
>ON Icom batteries, the 13.8 input is to charge the batteries. The internal
>circuit regulates charge current, so you can feed it unregulated 13.8 nominal.
These are actually IC-M2 Marine Band equivqalents of the original 2AT.
The BP5 is a 10.8v battery and has two dc inputs. One is marked for
wall charger (like above) the other is labeled 13.8v and I assume is for
"operating" from 13.8v continuously. When I plug a 13.8 v supply into
it, I hear a relay click but then the voltage on the battery terminals
drops to 6.6 volts. It does this on all 8 batteries I have..
yet, the 6.6 volts drops to 4 volts or less under only 250 mA load, so the
radio cannot run that way. But if BOTH DC plugs were for charging, one
from a current limited wall charger and one from a regulated DC voltage,
from which you still cannot operate, this seems like an awfully lot of
complexity for no advantage...
>The IC-2, 3, and 4 series want 6 x 1.25v or 7.5v emax so do not use a
>higher voltage directly to the radio's bottom contacts.
>
>Batteries America has replacement inserts if you want to put new cells in
>that pack.
No, they work fine. I just want to be able to operate the radio off of
13.8 from the DC input that is labeled 13.8...
Thnaks
Bob
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: ICOM IC-2AT info?
From: Mark Earle <wa2mct@mearle.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 13:22:31 -0600
X-Message-Number: 14
>"operating" from 13.8v continuously. When I plug a 13.8 v supply into
>it, I hear a relay click but then the voltage on the battery terminals
>drops to 6.6 volts. It does this on all 8 batteries I have..
Interesting -- I've seen a charge input for a wall wort, but not two jacks
on the battery nor one with a relay. Oh well!
) ) de WA2MCT Mark
( (
) ) You will be assimilated... oooh, coffee!!
_|****| http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/find.cgi?wa2mct-8 Home
( | | http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/find.cgi?wa2mct-9 Mobile
`|____| wa2mct@mearle.com wa2mct@juno.com www.mearle.com/mark
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: RE: ICOM IC-2AT info?
From: <BobDonnell@arkalmus.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 11:49:58 -0800
X-Message-Number: 15
Hi Bob, and all,
If recollection serves, I think what's happening inside the battery is
that the relay splits and parallels the cells, so that the potentially
available charging voltage can fully charge the cells. None of the
batteries intended for use on that vintage of handheld were intended to
provide operating voltage for the radios. Either the radio provided an
'operate from external power' connection on the radio (not the battery
pack) or you had to use a DC-1 adapter, which is a BP-3 sized enclosure
with a voltage regulator mounted to a sheetmetal heatsink, that wrapped
around the outer shell of the "battery pack" enclosure, to dissapate the
heat. Like another said, I ended up doing the same with an LM-317
inside the case for a dead BP-3. I know that on other high-voltage
packs, like the BP-7, the relay was a part of the battery pack, for the
same reason mentioned above - to provide two lower-voltage paralleled
banks of cells, so that they could be fully charged from a 12V source.
At the same time Icom introduced the BP-35 charger to replace the BP-30
charger - to provide the higher voltage necessary to charge the higher
voltage battery packs, without using the relay in the battery pack.
Hope that helps!
73, Bob, KD7NM
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: ICOM IC-2AT info?
From: Mike Fenske <mike_fenske@telus.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 14:47:53 -0800
X-Message-Number: 16
I have an old IC-02AT with a BP-8 battery pack (8.4V). The Ni-Cads are
shot, but I hooked up 13.8V into the battery pack, the charge light comes
on, the radio does not, so it looks like the 13.8V input on the battery
pack is just for charging. However, connecting 13.8V into the DC-in on the
top of the radio runs the radio as well as charging the battery. The manual
says that a supply of 5.5V to 16V is "acceptable", however a couple of
years ago I fried the PA module operating it on 14.8V.
The relay is in the radio and switches when the DC-in voltage exceeds the
battery voltage.
Since we're on the topic (slightly OT), I was thinking of replacing the
800mAH nicads in my BP-8 with "AA" size NiMH at 1800maH. THe BP-8 charges
at 80ma from the wall charger. Will this charge the NiMH's?? I understand
the standard slow charge rate is 10% of the amp-hour capacity for 12 hours.
Thanks,
Mike Fenske
VE7MKF
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: Fusing the ground lead...
From: "John Langtry, VE3NEC" <ve3nec@sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 20:49:51 -0500
X-Message-Number: 18
Folks,
I'm going to jump on this topic, which came from an O.T. post, before our
beleagered SIG admin has had enough, and pulls the plug.
If you place your rig across the battery posts; and here Mike and I tend to
disagree (I like the low impedance (less whine) of a fresh battery.)
Living in Canada, when the other folks tell me that they can hear
alternator whine on my voice transmissions, I know that it's time for a new
battery ! Failure to take action on that hint, generally leads to a no
start situation, on the coldest morning in Feb., and just when you just
*have* to attend an important meeting.
But, if you do, be sure that you fuse the -'ve lead, as well as the +'ve
lead.
Why ? Well I saw why. A fellow Amateur had, last Winter, a minor disaster.
In an N.A. made vehicle, there are two cables from the -'ve post; a light ~
# 6 AWG that runs to the vehicle's chassis, and a much heavier lead
(several 00's AWG) to the engine's block. This lead should carry the return
current when the engine's being started.
One cool (cold for you U.S. folks) day, not only would his engine not
crank, but his radio and TNC and the co-ax to his antenna were cooked !
(And yes, he was very late for his meeting.) He did not have a fuse in the
negative lead to his battery.
Upon trying to crank the engine, which as Mike points out, takes many
hundred of Amps; the best path was back through his radio, TNC and antenna
grounds; with disasterous results to his gear.
I was called into the picture after the disaster, for an explaination.
Upon examination of the vehicle, I discovered that the "several 00's AWG"
cable had become very loose down on the engine block. Which is not really
all that amazing when you consider that the average N.A. engine runs at
about 180' F at the water jacket; turn the engine off, in say our normal -
30' F, its not really as shock to find that the bolt for this conection to
the block had become loose.
Bottom line, no matter where you take your power from, I'd really recommend
a fuse in both of the leads that powers your radio and ancillary Amateur
gear !
vy 73 de John VE3NEC
905-873-8715
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Read previous mail | Read next mail
| |
