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ZL3AI > APRDIG 31.03.07 22:34l 237 Lines 10067 Bytes #999 (0) @ WW
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To : APRDIG@WW
Today's Topics:
1. D700 vs Prius (TGatje_at_aol.com)
2. Log File Format (M J)
3. Re: D700 vs Prius (Amateur Radio WB8NUT)
4. RE: D700 vs Prius (Jim)
5. Re: D700 vs Prius (Stephen H. Smith)
6. Re: D700 vs Prius (Stephen H. Smith)
7. Re: D700 vs Prius (bob evinger)
8. RE: Log File Format (Robert Bruninga)
9. Dumb FindU question (Steve Noskowicz)
10. Re: Dumb FindU question (Stephen H. Smith)
11. Re: SCS Tracker (Jack Chomley)
12. RE: Dumb FindU question (Danny Messano)
13. Re: Dumb FindU question (Steve Dimse)
14. Re: Dumb FindU question (Stephen Brown Jr)
15. Two More Tier 2 Servers for your use! (Phillip B. Pacier)
16. Re: Two More Tier 2 Servers for your use! (tvsjr_at_sprynet.com)
17. Re: Two More Tier 2 Servers for your use! (Jim Duncan)
18. Re: Two More Tier 2 Servers for your use! (Phillip B. Pacier)
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 16:59:25 EDT
From: TGatje_at_aol.com
Subject: [aprssig] D700 vs Prius
Greetings,
I am relatively new to this list but have seen some discussion of
installation of Kenwood TM-D700As in various vehicles.
For a new wrinkle (for me) I want to install the radio in a Toyota Prius.
It, of course, has some issues.
First, it has a relatively small capacity 12VDC battery. This battery
basically runs the control system and computers. All the heavy lifting is
done by the 200VDC battery. Therefore I believe I won't be able to let the
system run continuously when the vehicle is parked.
Second, the Prius is basically a "drive by wire" vehicle, heavy on
computers and such. I'm worried that the presence of a transmitter in the
car may cause some malfunction. The last comment of the Experience center
was that unapproved modifications may void the warranty! Contact with the
dealer and the "Toyota Customer Experience Center" have not been any help.
I believe someone on this list mentioned seeing a bulletin saying
transmitters in Priuses are okay up to about 100 watts but I've not been
able to find anyone at Toyota to verify that.
Third, suggestions on wire routing, power tap locations, etc would be
appreciated.
Does anyone have any experience installing a D700 in a Prius? Or have any
advice on how to minimize problems? If you've seen their bulletin on
installed transmitters, please let me know where to find it.
I receive this list in the digest mode so answers from me may be slow. You
can also contact me direct at: TGatje_at_aol.com
(mailto:TGatje_at_aol.com)
Thanks for any assistance
Tam
AA0LY
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 14:08:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: M J <mjandthegang_at_yahoo.com>
Subject: [aprssig] Log File Format
Is there a standard protocol for creating a log file or does each APRS
client store log files in their own way?
Alternatively, is there one log file format that is universally readable by
all APRS clients (even if they may have their own preferred format)?
Thanks!
MJ
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 17:29:47 -0400
From: Amateur Radio WB8NUT <duffy_at_wb8nut.com>
Subject: Re: [aprssig] D700 vs Prius
Wow, I had no idea those Japanese cars had drive by wire and not a
conventional steering system. That would scare the heck out of me. Can't
stand to fly in jets with just fly by wire systems. I like the hybrids
myself.
If you're concerned about RF getting into the computers on the car, what if
you have one and are driving next to some guy with a high power HF station
in his car on the way to Dayton? You not only have to worry about your own
transmitter, but also someone else - or what about getting close to a
commercial transmitter?
Duffy
www.wb8nut.com
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 22:57:35 +0100
From: "Jim" <jim_at_stuckinthemud.org>
Subject: RE: [aprssig] D700 vs Prius
I didn't think there were any production cars that had steer-by-wire
systems?
Virtually everything else yes, but my understanding was that the primary
braking and steering still had to be essentially mechanical, assisted
perhaps, but still work if the rest of the car dies.
IIRC Car manufacturers now have to do specific RF tests and make the
results available on demand via the dealers, so you know what it's been
tested and guaranteed for, so long as the equipment is installed as per
their instructions.
Jim
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 15:05:28 -0700
From: "Stephen H. Smith" <wa8lmf2_at_aol.com>
Subject: [aprssig] Re: D700 vs Prius
I have installed a D700 and a 100W HF rig in a Prius with no problems.
I installed a second battery (An Optima Spiracell Yellowtop 42AH
deep-cycle), with a Hellroaring Technology battery isolator in the
sub-trunk, and connected it in parallel with the main 12VDC battery. The
DC-DC converter that creates 12VDC from 240VDC can source 50 amps or more,
so the power system has no problem charging the larger 12V battery when the
engine is running.
The Hellroaring isolator is a voltage-sensitive power-FET switch. When the
power system on the input side of this device is at 13 VDC or higher (i.e.
engine running), the switch conducts and connects the secondary battery to
the charging system with less than .1 VDC drop. When the input side drops
below 13 VDC (i.e. engine off), the isolator opens and disconnects the
secondary battery. All the radio and computer gear runs off the secondary
batttey and can be safely left on. The isolator also has contacts for
attaching a "panic switch" to force the device on even if the primary
voltage is below 13 VDC -- useful for jumpstarting from the secondary
battery if the primary one runs down.
For antenna mounts, I bent up some L-shaped brackets that added a small
horizontal "wing" to each side of the tailgate hatch opening. I placed
two holes in the vertical part of the brackets with exactly the same
spacing as the existing mounting screws for the hatch lifter pistons. You
just take out the two 11mm screws that secure the hatch-lifters to the
trunk sidewall, slip in the brackets so they are sandwiched between the
piston bracket and the sidewall, and re-insert the screws. The bracket on
the driver's is punched with a 5/8" hole for an SO-232 bulkhead ("barrel")
connector. The right bracket is punched with a 7/8" hole and has a standard
body-type NMO mount installed through it. The SO239 side supports a Yaesu
ATAS-100 HF screwdriver. The NMO side supports a Comet 770
no-ground-plane-required 2M/450 dual-bander.
The chassis of both radios are also mounted in the subtrunk. I lined the
floor of the subtrunk with a 1/8" thick aluminum plate cut to exactly fit
the floor of the trunk. The standard mobile brackets for both radios are
bolted to the plate as are several fuse blocks, the Hellroaring isolater
and various other radio-related pieces of hardware. Since this plate is
resting in a plastic tray it is completely isolated from the car's chassis
grounds. I use the plate as a common point ground for all the black
(negative) wires of the ham gear and related electronics. ( I placed a
single 1/4-20 1 1/2-inch bolt upwards from the underside of the plate. All
negative power leads from the transceivers, second battery, isolator,
laptop power supply, etc are equipped with 1/4" ring terminals, stacked on
this bolt and locked down with a couple of 1/4-20 hex nuts.) A single 10-ga
black wire (car stereo primary power wire) goes to the negative terminal of
the car's existing 12V battery in the right rear corner of the trunk.
[The objective here was to absolutely minimize heavy DC currents from the
ham gear current drain from circulating on the car's own chassis
ground/negative power system. This is to both minimize the chance of
interfering with fly-by-wire electronics, and to minimize the amount of
noise picked up by the ham gear via voltage drop over shared chassis
grounds. A single 10-ga black wire (car stereo primary power wire) goes to
the negative terminal of the car's existing 12V battery in the right rear
corner of the trunk. ]
Up front there is plenty of room between the front of the console and the
underside of the dashboard to mount the control heads of both radios.
Again, I made an L-bracket by cut an approximately 4" x 8" piece of 1/8"
aluminum plate and bending it 90 degrees at the centerline, to yield a
4"x4" bracket on each side. One 1/4" hole, and another 1/4-20 x 3/8" bolt
with a pair of 1.5" dia fender washers secures the plate to the underside
of the plastic dash panel very solidly.
The result of this is absolutely no interference with any of the car's
electronics.
However, on HF, the noise from the hybrid power converter generates a LOT
of broadband white noise hash across the HF bands, making it impossible to
hear anything under S8-S9 or so. An inverter mounted on the electric
drive motor converts 240 VDC to 440V three-phase AC. The noise generated
from this 50 KW (!!) DC switching converter is a lot more than your
run-of-the-mill 200W switching computer power supply! This hash SLIGHTLY
desenses the D700 receive on 2M but has no noticeable effect on UHF. It
get especially severe when you hit the brakes activating the regenerative
braking system or roll down hill. In either case, the motor reverses roles
to become a generator driven by the wheels and generates a lot of popping
grinding noise (sounds like an electric drill or mixer) overlaid on the
smoother existing white noise.
--
Stephen H. Smith wa8lmf (at) aol.com
EchoLink Node: 14400 [Think bottom of the 2M band]
Home Page: http://wa8lmf.com --OR-- http://wa8lmf.net
NEW! World Digipeater Map
http://wa8lmf.net/APRSmaps
JavAPRS Filter Port 14580 Guide
http://wa8lmf.net/aprs/JAVaprsFilters.htm
"APRS 101" Explanation of APRS Path Selection & Digipeating
http://wa8lmf.net/DigiPaths
Updated "Rev H" APRS http://wa8lmf.net/aprs
Symbols Set for UI-View,
UIpoint and APRSplus:
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